SALENTO — They seem far away, the dark years of Colombia’s armed conflict.

More than eight years after the peace agreements, we walk without fear along the pretty streets of charming towns like Salento.

Nowadays places like this are very popular with international visitors to Colombia, who appreciate the dapper facades in bright colours, the laidback locals in sombreros, and the ‘liquid black gold’, one of the best coffees in the world, all in the heart of ‘Eje Cafetero’, Colombia’s Coffee Triangle.

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Bounded by three cities (Pereira, Manizales and Armenia) located in as many departments (Risaralda, Caldas and Quindio), Colombia’s Coffee Triangle brings together these lovely destinations with their multicoloured facades, ringed by soft summits with their heads buried in the clouds.

Between these towns and stunning green rolling landscapes lie millions of coffee trees on the smallest plots of land, from low in the valley to high altitudes.

The region has been so well shaped by the coffee culture that in 2011 it was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

And since then, a good number of fincas (ranches) and haciendas have opened their doors and their plantations to visitors.

CAFFEINATED VISITS

At the Venecia hacienda, near Manizales, our guide Johann Alexis Martinez is so dynamic, one wonders if he fell into a giant coffee pot when he was little. At least that’s one possible explanation for his seemingly permanent caffeinated energy levels.

Each plantation visit allows visitors to discover the process that leads from the bean to the cup, as well as the big business behind the powerful black nectar.

Here as elsewhere in the region, the volcanic soil is so rich and the weather alternates so often between rain and sun that there are two harvests per year. “Colombian coffee is so good because it is only Arabica and it is always hand-picked,” adds Martinez.

At the Venecia hacienda there is also a century-old residence so inviting, you can sleep there with clenched fists, even after drinking three litres of coffee. Sinking into a sofa or a hammock on the veranda to watch the hummingbirds while sipping soursop juice is equally enjoyable, with or without caffeine in the blood.

TORRENTS OF HOT SPRINGS

To work off all that caffeinated energy, the Coffee Triangle has plenty of mountains just waiting to be climbed. This country is one of most diverse on the planet, with 314 ecosystems identified.

In Los Nevados Natural National Park, impeccable ribbon-like paths allow for panoramic climbs and breathtaking descents by bike. Treks and hikes can take place against the backdrop of dormant volcanoes (the iconic Tolima, 5215 m) or not (the turbulent Nevado del Ruiz, 5321 m).

Meanwhile torrents of hot thermal waters gurgle and spring from the earth in so many pools, it’s easy to refresh after a day of effort.

AUTHENTICITY EVERYWHERE

An archetype of Colombian rural life, the Coffee Triangle is also best experienced in the languid rhythm of laidback towns like Santa Rosa de Cabal.

Santa Rosa de Cabal’s public market is overflowing with herbs, vegetables and especially fruits, in this country where one can eat a different fruit every day of the year. Its cafes and patisseries, like the adorable and unmissable Pastelaria by César Restrepo, offer delicious sweet delights to the sound of Colombian bolero performances.

In Manizales, the town stretches high atop a ridge and its steep streets tumble towards the valleys, all covered with coffee trees. You can treat yourself to a cappuccino in the bell tower at Tazzioli Café in Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Rosary, or let yourself be told legends while tasting succulent specialties inspired by so many Colombian regions at the brilliant restaurant La Beautiful.

You can also take in these last years of bullfights in this country (a ban is set to take effect in mid-2027). Or better yet, do like the Colombians do, and sit peacefully in urban parks to aimlessly experience the passing of time.

FLIGHTS, HOTELS & MORE

The best times to visit Colombia’s Coffee Triangle are from mid-June to mid-September, and from mid-December to mid-March.

Here are a few more tips based on this writer’s travels, as a guest of PROCOLOMBIA …

Airlines & connections

Avianca connects Toronto and Montreal to Bogota by direct flights, year round; Air Canada does the same from Montreal. From Bogota, Avianca serves Pereira and Manizales, two key destinations in the Coffee Triangle.

Inbound tour operators

A very good inbound tour operator that offers a wide variety of packages and products, Living Trips has been dealing with international tour operators for almost 15 years. For those who wish to explore the region (or country) by bike, Altos Cycling provides excellent rental services with very good bikes, including electric, as well as support on Colombian roads.

Hotels

• Hotel Termales el Otono, Villamaria (4*): Splendid establishment which includes a multitude of thermal water pools surrounded by rich vegetation, with large rooms and very good dining.
• Hotel Finca del Café (4*), Santa Rosa: This beautiful, comfortable hotel has large rooms, a good restaurant, thermal pools and a mini-museum dedicated to coffee. Good value for money.
• Hotel La Herencia, Armenia (3*): This vast area is dotted with large and splendid (and ultra-comfortable) villas with private swimming pool, large terrace and very good dining. Perfect for a stay with family or friends.

• El Nido del Condor, near Montenegro: This exceptional ecolodge, nestled on a summit in the heart of a valley, is frequented by many condors and has 20 large, comfortable luxury tents.

•  Hacienda Venecia: Superb period house with large veranda, hammocks, abundant vegetation, typical rooms (and dormitory accommodation) in the heart of a coffee plantation. Several guided tours are available, focusing on coffee, chocolate or rum.

This story originally ran at ProfessionVoyages.com. For more information on travel to Colombia see colombia.travel/en.