“Never say never.”
For anyone dreaming of travelling to a far-off (and definitely off-the-beaten-path) destination, those three little words can be the first steps to experiencing the trip of a lifetime.
Ayesha Patel, luxury travel consultant with The Travel Agent Next Door, knows all about the power of “never say never.”
It’s the advice she gave to herself – and has since passed along to other travellers – as she embarked on a next-level trip to the Kingdom of Bhutan, with far more unknowns than knowns.
As she tells Travelweek: “I had always wanted to see Bhutan. It’s been on my bucket list for a long time. So when my colleague asked if I wanted to join them on their own FAM that they planned with MyBhutan, I couldn’t resist.”
Most countries measure their success by GDP (Gross Domestic Product). For Bhutan, it’s all about GNH (Gross National Happiness), measuring the happiness and wellbeing of Bhutan’s residents (it’s even in the country’s constitution).
As Patel notes, Bhutan is also the first (and only) carbon-negative country in the world. Some 70% of Bhutan’s land mass is forested, resulting in carbon dioxide absorption that more than makes up for the country’s CO2 emissions.
Once Patel signed on for the trip, the wheels were in motion, literally. “Next thing I knew, I was on a plane to see a country that many people, I’ve discovered, have not even heard of. Never thought in my wildest dreams I’d ever end up there.”
Travelweek spoke to Patel about her Bhutan experience, from the sightseeing, to the hotels, to the cities on her itinerary: Thimphu, Punakha and Paro.
THE WORLD’S ONLY CAPITAL CITY WITH NO TRAFFIC LIGHTS
Patel tells Travelweek that anyone looking to visit Bhutan must book through a tour company to get their tourist visa processed and upon arriving in the country, must travel with a guide, and driver. “With these requirements in place, the government controls the issue of over-tourism, protecting their rich ecosystem with the additional benefit of creating jobs for the locals,” she says.
She landed in Paro, home to the country’s only international airport (PBH), and made her way to Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital, with a guide and driver. With a population of more than 140,000, Thimphu is bustling – but amazingly, the city has no traffic lights, not a single one. As Patel notes, it’s the only capital in the world that can make that claim. Local police direct traffic in busy areas, but aside from that, the daily flow of life is all down to common courtesy.
Thimphu is home to Bhutan’s government offices as well as the official residence of the King. “It’s also the best place to find locally made souvenirs, textiles and other crafts,” says Patel. Plus, “Thimphu’s elevation allows for some spectacular views that you can enjoy from various areas within the city, especially from the Great Buddha Dordenma.” The famous statue, made of bronze and gilded in gold, is one of the largest sitting Buddha statues in the world, at some 177 feet high.
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Bhutan’s Great Buddha Dordenma
Another highlight in Thimphu, the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, was founded by the government to preserve and promote traditional Bhutanese arts. The school offers courses where students hone their skills at 13 traditional Bhutanese crafts (as Patel notes, Zorig Chusum literally means 13 arts and crafts).
Next up: Punakha, the former capital of Bhutan. “On the road that links Thimphu and Punakha is Dochula Pass. From 10,000 feet, on a clear day, you’ll have breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding snowcapped Himalayan mountains,” says Patel.
Nearby is the beautiful temple Druk Wangyal Lhakhanga, while serene Punakha Valley offers lush greenery, rice terraces and warmer weather due to the lower elevation. The intricate architecture of monastery Punakha Dzong also draws visitors, as does the 520-foot suspension bridge spanning Po Chhu River – with beautiful views of the surrounding valley and river.
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The 520-foot suspension bridge spanning Bhutan’s Po Chhu River
THE CLIMB TO THE ICONIC ‘TIGER’S NEST’
The final city on Patel’s itinerary, Paro, is home to one of the biggest attractions of Bhutan: the climb up to Paro Taktstang monastery, famously known as the Tiger’s Nest. If you’ve ever seen a photo of Bhutan, it’s almost certainly a picture of this iconic site.
As Patel tells it, Paro Taktstang was built in the 17th century on a cave set into a cliff, sitting at about 10,240 feet above sea level, overlooking Paro Valley. The climb takes 2-3 hours on the way up, and about 1.5 hours down. Guides are mandatory for the climb, for safety’s sake.
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Patel on the trek to Paro Taktstang, also known as the Tiger’s Nest
“Going at a slower pace with multiple stops along the way to take in the magnificent views made the hike well worth the effort,” Patel tells Travelweek. “Not being a regular hiker myself, I was able to make the trek without any issues, but I wouldn’t recommend it for anyone with mobility or severe respiratory issues, due to the elevation.”
She adds: “Once at the monastery, you can’t help but immerse yourself in the spiritual atmosphere of this sacred site. There’s a real sense of calm, and you begin to appreciate why so many devout Buddhists make this pilgrimage. The climb to Tiger’s Nest left a lasting impression on me and I would highly recommend it to anyone who is physically able to do the climb.”
WHAT ABOUT THE HOTELS?
Just as important as the sightseeing, a destination’s hotels are key to any successful trip, and Patel offers expert assessments of each property on her itinerary.
In Thimphu, Patel started with a stay at Zhiwaling Ascent. The property was under renovation, a fair distance from the centre of Thimphu, and Patel and her colleague were the only guests. As a luxury travel specialist, she says she wouldn’t recommend it to her clients, positioning it as more of a three-star offering. “Regardless of budget, I would recommend staying at a hotel in town.”
That’s exactly what Patel did for her third night, moving to Le Meridien Thimphu. “The hotel itself was adequate and what one would expect from a chain hotel,” she says. “It would be a good option for those clients who want to use points on their hotel stay. But there are far nicer options in the area that I would recommend first.”
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Le Meridien Thimphu
In Punakha, she stayed in a two-bedroom villa at COMO Uma Punakha. Says Patel: “The service, the food, and the views from the room were all spectacular. Punakha has several great luxury hotels to choose from and I would highly recommend this one, especially for those seeking a small intimate experience as it has just 10 rooms and villas.” She also got to experience COMO Uma Punakha’s signature COMO Shambhala massage “which was amazing and absolutely lived up to its hype.”
- COMO Uma Punakha
- The lobby at COMO Uma Punakha
In Paro, Patel stayed at the Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary, the country’s only five-star wellness-inclusive resort. Her take? “They’re serious about wellness here and focus on unplugging. There aren’t even televisions in the room (but WiFi is available). The luxurious rooms are spacious and decorated in a calm and soothing palette, with terraces or balconies overlooking Neyphu Valley. All rooms are also plastic-free. All food/drinks and wellness treatments, including massages (a great way to end the day after the hike up to Tiger’s Nest!), are included in your stay (one treatment per day).”
- Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary
- Views for days in the Kingdom of Bhutan
She adds that Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary guests also have access to an indoor heated pool, sauna, steam rooms, fitness equipment and yoga classes, plus they get a free private consultation with a Bhutanese traditional medicine doctor. “He takes your pulse and diagnoses where you are experiencing imbalances in your body, then recommends a treatment plan with some treatments available at the resort. He was pretty accurate with me! For those clients seeking a wide repertoire of wellness experiences at a resort for their mind, body and soul, the Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary will undoubtedly fulfill their needs.”
On her trip Patel also managed to fit in several hotel site inspections, including: three of the five lodges under the umbrella of Six Senses Bhutan (Six Senses Thimphu, Six Senses Punakha, Six Senses Paro); Aman Resorts’ Amankora; COMO Hotels & Resorts’ COMO Uma Paro and COMO Uma Punakha; Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary; Pemako; &Beyond Punakha River Lodge; and Zhiwaling Heritage Hotel.
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The view of Punakha Valley and Mo Chhu River, from COMO Uma Punakha
STANDOUT DMC SERVICE
On an already incredible trip, what really impressed Patel about her Bhutan journey was the local DMC, MyBhutan, led by Matt DeSantis and his team.
As Patel notes, the company has extensive knowledge of Bhutan and expertise in creating itineraries customized to the client’s interests. “My personable guide, Tshering and driver, Wang Chook, who were with me throughout the entire trip, were outstanding and taught me so much about the history and people of the country. Their unwavering hospitality, and kindness made my trip incredibly memorable.”
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My Bhutan tour guide Tshering and driver Wang Chook
She adds: “Everyone at MyBhutan who was involved in planning my trip and who also had to deal with changes along the way while in destination were an absolute pleasure to work with. Their professionalism, flexibility and handling of all the necessary paperwork to make this trip possible was beyond what I had expected from a DMC and I would highly recommend them to travel advisors looking to give their clients a seamless experience while visiting the beautiful Kingdom of Bhutan.”
The website for MyBhutan is https://www.mybhutan.com/.
Got details to share about your own trip to an off-the-beaten-path country? We want to hear from you. Email kfolliott@travelweek.ca