EXUMA — I’ve been vacationing in the Bahamas for many years, but I still remember my very first visit.
I was captivated by the crystal-clear waters, the locals’ warm, inviting smiles, and my first delectable introduction to conch fritters that I was initially hesitant to try.
And who could forget the catchy early 1990s tag, ‘It’s better in the Bahamas’? The jingle, admittedly, replayed time and time again in my head.
Nassau, the thriving capital and hub of the Bahamas on New Providence, is a long-standing favourite among Caribbean vacationers. As a familiar and easy-to-get-to destination, it’s the main gateway and landing point for most visitors.
As I ventured beyond Nassau, my travels this time brought me to The Exumas, a treasure trove of islands – 365, to be exact – and comprised of Great Exuma, Little Exuma and the Exuma Cays. These islands boast stunning powdery white beaches, sapphire blue waters, and unique experiences, including interactions with two and four-legged creatures that are a sight to behold.
If your travels lure you to stray off the beaten path and explore enchanting, lesser-known beaches, here are some of the best must-do activities in The Exumas.
SWIMMING WITH THE PIGS? YES, IT’S A THING
This unique and popular tourist attraction has long lured visitors to this picturesque part of the Bahamas. The novelty of swimming and interacting with these comical paddling pigs continues to raise the profile of Exuma thanks to social media fame over the years.
But how exactly did the Insta-worthy piglets get there, I ask? One local legend states that the pigs were brought to the Bahamas in the past, possibly by sailors (or hungry pirates perhaps?). The pigs currently reside on various islands in the Cays, with the main island being Big Major Cay (Pig Beach), and are considered the ‘original swimming pigs’ of the Bahamas.
Insider tip: The pigs have no breaks while swimming. Dangle your food offering to the side to avoid collision. And be mindful of your fingers!
Another exciting experience is getting up close and personal with the Bahamian Rock iguanas on a stop at Bitter Guana Cay (better known as Iguana Island).
The Exumas is one of the few places left where you can find these incredible animals, and I was able to feed these peaceful creatures their favourite leafy greens directly on the beach as they came out to greet us.
THE MANY HUES OF BLUE
Digging my toes in powdery sand and soaking in the brilliant, transparent turquoise waters is genuinely a pinch-me experience.
As perfect and serene as this setting is today, the Exuma Islands had their moment in history marked by drug cartels in the 1970s and 1980s, as our trusted captain, Justin Lightbourn, owner of Exuma Water Sports, explained.
Today, the string of 365 islands remains home to secluded, unspoiled, footprint-free beaches, deserted cays, sandbanks and natural beckoning lazy river currents all accessible by boat.
I was pleasantly surprised to discover that it’s still a destination where nature outnumbers man, and flawless coastlines remain intact, an authentic tribute to the islands.
The Exuma Cays offer some of the best snorkelling in the Bahamas and the world, an accolade notably recognized by Condé Naste this year.
Insider tip: Dean’s Blue Hole is the world’s third-deepest underwater sinkhole. While snorkelling its entire 663-foot depth is impossible, it’s still a fantastic experience to snorkel around its edges.
THE CHARMS OF LITTLE EXUMA
Welcome to Little Exuma. Connected by a small bridge and about an hour’s drive from Great Exuma, this tranquil island is low-key and ideal for winding down, not up.
The island has a population of over 7,000. It is one of those familiar places where everyone knows everyone, and the ambiance is so casual that if you’re not barefoot, you’re overdressed.
I was lucky enough to find a Little Exuma proud local, Zelma, who was my guide for the morning. Zelma has a fascinating past as an entrepreneur. Currently offering taxi/private sightseeing services for the past 22 years, Zelma shared local history with stops at postcard-perfect beaches that only a local would be privy to.
Exploring the area by renting a small boat or kayak is a fantastic way to spend a day discovering hidden beaches or getting to know the surroundings.
One thing that makes Little Exuma authentic is the locally owned bars, restaurants, and retail establishments – no familiar fast-food giants can be found here.
And you’ve come to the right place if you appreciate the lost art of low-key beach bars and excellent restaurants serving fresh-caught seafood and local specialties.
The most famous restaurant in Little Exuma is Santana’s. It was a well-known hangout for Johnny Depp, Orlando Bloom, and the Pirates of the Caribbean cast when Zelma chauffeured them around while they were on location.
Another landmark and must-visit is the charming family-owned Mom’s Bakery, where the original ‘Mom’ (now in her early 90s) is a local legend and still bakes and sells her famous rum cakes to locals and tourists alike.
DAY TRIPPING
Two of the most popular tours in the Exuma area are the half or full-day excursions, Swimming with the Pigs and Seven Beaches & Moriah Marine Park via Exuma Water Sports or Island Routes.
GETTING THERE
Bahamas Air offers twice-daily flights from Nassau. Also available are seasonal direct flights from Toronto to Exuma International Airport with Air Canada.
For more information about travel to The Bahamas click here.
